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Water and history are the defining elements at Coconut Lagoon.
Water surges in clockwork rhythms on its shores, through its canals and pools.
And history stands watch from the grounds above. . From the centuries-old beams
of the heritage mansion to the carved woods of the reception,the past comes alive
as liquid reflections, mirrored in ripples and shards wherever you look.
Fittingly,
Coconut Lagoon can be reached only over the water. (See
map).The
great Vembanad lake, an inland sea that stretches clear across central Kerala,
forms a breeze-laden watery highway. Your coach transfer happens via a generously
clunky wooden boat with a little inboard motor (so as not to disturb the fishes).
And the lobby, when you arrive, turns out to be a reconstructed 19th century mansion
with a stone jetty attached. Your boat putters sedately through a narrow canal,
its banks covered with flowers. Tiled-roof bungalows peer through the foliage.
And with a reviving coconut cocktail in one hand, you step off the boat and up
to the reception desk, all ready to check in.
Conde´ Nast Traveller
once described Coconut Lagoon as one of the 25 best destinations in the world.
Our guests tell us that the journey inward is an experience to match.
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Fuedal
Kerala was a jigsaw of tiny states, principalities and landholdings, creating
a unique culture, architecture and way of living.
It is this heritage that
echoes in Coconut Lagoons dark timbers.
Until a few years ago, the old 'therawads'
or family homes of the area were running to seed, the landed families scattered,
the craftmen unable to make a living.
We wanted not only to perpetuate this
slowly vanishing world, but to bring it alive for the contemporary traveller.
Village craftspeople were invited to restore the work of their forefathers, to
transport an ancient way of life to the shores of the Vembanad, and create an
experience of ecological living that was shot through with the spirit of ancient
Malabar. We've
tried our best to ensure that this spirit reflects in every structure. From the
carved woods of the ceilings, to the brasswork on the doors, it's all faithful
to a forgotten graciousness. Those with an eye for detail will find much to delight
in. Sunlight filtering through the intricate fretwork of a roof shade. A gleaming
of brass, a slash of cast iron, a preternaturally gleaming, polished wooden pillar...
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History
might be the inspiration, but it is nature that breathes life into Coconut Lagoon.
A Vechoor
Cow keeps the grass from growing too tall, content in the
knowledge that it belongs to a special breed indeed. Butterflies flit about a
garden created for their pleasure alone. And compost heaps are kept, not out of
sight (and therefore out of mind), but right where you can see them, in neat little
wicker-framed stacks dotted about the grounds. Canoes
ply silently through the pellucid afternoon, and our next-door neighbours from
the Kumarakom bird sanctuary drop by at the restaurant for an occasional snack. |
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One
of the best ways to enjoy the lake is to take our sunset cruise, an hour-long
idyll with flute accompaniment.
The half-day cruise (extendable at will - time
has a strange meaning around here) along the backwater canals is a fine way to
experience village life , unfolding in vignettes along grassy banks shaded by
tropical canopies, the village houses at mere handshaking distance.
Those
who like a bit of a walk can amble along to Philip Kutty's Farm, through lush
paddy fields spotted with coconut groves. At the end of it all, you can get up
close with organic farming, done the old-fashioned way.Or try a glass of refreshing
palm toddy, a mildly alcoholic local tipple that should fortify you nicely for
the walk back.
Water
lovers might enjoy taking an oar- or punt-boat out on to the lake. Within minutes,
you're in a watery universe, so quiet, you can hear your own blood pumping around
your head.
The terminally sedate can borrow a rod and bait from the reception
and spend their time just fishing in the canal, right outside their cottage. Or
take up that time-honoured activity beloved of our guests: get a book from the
bar library, then let it slip gently out of your hands as your hammock lulls you
into dreamland. | | | | |
Coconut
Lagoon also plays host to some of the finest dancers, musicians and performers
of traditional Keralan art forms (sorry, there's not a movie or a disco in sight,
thank goodness). So you should try to catch an evening's show of Kathakali, Mohiniattam
or Carnatic music.
You may find the rhythms unusual, the scales unfamiliar.
But give it a few minutes, use your heart rather than your head, and you may be
in for a near-spiritual experience. See
a slide show: Preparing for a Kathakali performance |
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The spirit
of old Kerala is alive and well in our cuisines. Coconut Lagoon's the place to
sample some authentic Malabari food, with the accent, of course, on fresh fish
from the lake and the sea. Sample some giant freshwater prawns, along with a plate
of nourishing red rice. Or try the local delicacy, Karimeen (Pearl Spot fish)
a dish beloved of its connoisseurs, who will argue for hours over the proper method
of cooking it (we've adopted them all). | | |
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